This past week in Puerto was an unforgettable swell. It began on Friday July 24th peaked on the 25th Saturday and held solid for Sunday the 26th. Wave face sizes on the 25th were around 30 ft, check it out here at surfline.com: "Solid swell pounds the west coast." I surfed on Friday and Sunday, but Saturday was a day for only the heaviest weights of the Mexican Pipeline, I'm talking about chargers like Greg Long, Rusty Long, Jaime Sterling, Gavin Beschen, Dane Ward, Coco Nogales, Crazy Will, Alejandro Moreda, and I think that was it. Two jet skis were out towing, in addition to making a number of rescues even amongst the aforementioned A-list of big wave riders! I can't tell you how amazing those guys are and the energy each one of them has is truly special. I pretty much worship them. Waves like that for me? I hope so, one day...but I've got time!
Now that the waves are small again it's time to sleep in, sit in the lifeguard tower and watch the waves while drinking coffee, and scope out the morning happenings at the beach. The beach is poppin in the morning because it's much cooler at this time of the day, very good for people watching! No need to rush, the smaller the waves, the more people, go figure. One on the many reasons I want to surf bigger waves! YA!
My Mexican sister Vanessa Gonzalez is HAPPY! Even when the waves are "small" here it's double over head for her, check the pic! It's funny because my only sister in real life is named Vanessa, and from the moment I met Mexican Vanessa she has been truly like a sister and introduced me to many of the people who have become my Mexican family. I'm very lucky to have my sister here with me to show me the ropes in Mexico and watch out for me! A MI ME ENCANTA MEXICO! I LOVE MEXICO!
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